Birgitta Helmersson

Birgitta Helmersson - ZW Coat PDF


  • Description
  • Sizing
  • Requirements
  • *Please note you will not receive a physical pattern, you will receive a zip file download. When you purchase the item you will be sent a link to download the files

    Method: This zero waste pattern is a downloadable PDF Instruction booklet. It is designed to be drawn directly onto your fabric by using small templates which you can make yourself, or print easily on a home printer. You draw your garment pieces directly onto your fabric by following the step by step instructions. Pieces are broken up into simple blocks which can be modified easily to change lengths, add/remove different design elements and accommodate changing fabric widths.


    The ZW coat is an unlined unisex oversized coat with a batwing sleeve, round collar and patch pockets. The short coat has a front button closure and the long coat has a front button closure and waist tie. Also comes with tips on how to cut a lining if you want to add this.

    This pattern comes with 2 options, a short and a long coat. The short coat is suitable for beginners and up, the long coat is more suited to mid-intermediate sewers, however if you make the short coat as your first project and progress to the long coat for your next one this would work well as a lot of the steps are the same.

    PDF Pattern/Instruction Booklet: Includes measurements in both metric (centimetres) and US imperial (inches). Booklet/Templates are printable on both A4 or US Letter Paper size. You can check the 'Table of Contents' in the PDF booklet to see which page numbers include Templates for printing.

    Fabric recommendations: Ideal in a mid heavy weight wool coating. This can also work in a lighter wool or cotton drill for more of a light jacket or trench coat style, you will need to make sure you fuse part of your collar if you choose a lighter weight fabric.

    Sewing level: Advanced Beginner

  • This is a one size pattern which fits the size range below. *Birgitta is working on extending sizes in this pattern.

    Size 1 (EU 36 - 44)

    *Based on using a fabric that is 150cm / 59 inches wide. You can make this coat longer or shorter by choosing a fabric with a wider or narrower width. Please note if you need a longer arm length than the below measurement you will need to add more to your fabric usage. Add double the amount you need, ie to add 5cm / 2 inches your sleeve length your fabric usage will be 150cm / 59 ½ inches. This is particularly important for the SHORT COAT as if your sleeve is too short the arm band will sit higher on the arm and feel too tight. More detailed adjustment info is included in the pattern.

    Short Coat

    -Length, shoulder to hem: 77cm / 30 1/4 inch

    -Chest/waist/hem circumference: 185cm / 72 3/4 inch

    -Sleeve/arm length, true shoulder point to sleeve hem: 57cm / 22 1/2 inch

    -Sleeve bicep circumference: 42cm / 16 ½ inch

    -Sleeve wrist circumference: 27cm / 10 ½ inch

    Long Coat

    -Length, shoulder to hem: 118cm / 46 inch

    -Chest/waist/hem circumference: 162cm / 63 ½ inch

    -Sleeve/arm length, true shoulder point to sleeve hem: 57cm / 22 inch

    -Sleeve bicep circumference: 52cm / 20 inch

    -Sleeve wrist circumference: 37cm / 14 ½ inch

  • *This coat is cut against the grain (cross-wise) which means that the width of your fabric determines the length of your coat.

    Recommended width

    145 – 160 cm / 57 – 63 inches

    Yardage required

    Short coat: 140cm / 55 1/2 inches (approx 1.55 yards) 

    Long coat: 200cm / 78 inches (approx 2.2 yards)

    Notions (Optional)

    -Bias tape or binding. Approx 3 metres / 118 inches. This can be used to finish some of the seams on the inside and is a really nice finish when using heavy coating. You can use either a pre cut binding from a roll or cut your own using a lightweight cotton or linen.

    -Buttons x 3. Recommended size 2 - 2.5cm / ¾ – 1 inch.

    -Iron on fusing, approx 25cm / 10 inch. Only required if you are using a lighter weight fabric and is used to fuse the inside of the collar and front facings.

    -Elastic or a length of cord. This is required if you are doing the short coat hack to gather in the back hem. The size of elastic is determined by how much you want to bring in the hem.

    -Lining. This coat doesn’t need a lining but the booklet includes tips on how to add one if you want to for some extra warmth. More info in the booklet on this.